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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.